KASAUL KNOCKED
Some day in the first week of june with 3rd beer in hand and
tipsy heads.
Sukrut-Hum dono Ch….e hain. Log ladakh jaate hain but apne pass saala
time hi nahi hai. But yaar ab kuch karna hai. Mere ko Mumbai jaane se pahle ek
last ride maarni hai tere saath.
Harminder - haan yaar bc. lagi parhi hai. hey wait. let’s go to Kasaul. Awesome place. I have read a lot about
it. But this time it should be a long ride. (It’s but natural for a sardar to
speak in English after getting drunk)
Sukrut- I can take out 4 days.
Harminder- same here. Toh let’s do it. But baapu se gaali parhegi. But
chalte hain. Woh toh vaise bhi parhegi toh ride karke gaali khana is better.
So this is how it was planned.
Last ride we did together was in April and it was Pauri. And
in that very ride we decided as Himachal to be our next destination. Sukrut sir
was about to leave Delhi within 3 weeks.
He decided to shift to Mumbai and after few weeks of search, he landed
up with a pretty decent job. So one day in June while celebrating for his new
job it again happened to both of us. The same itching which soothes down only
after riding our bikes on mountain roads. So we finalised Kasaul this time. It
was a long desire of mine to visit this place. I remember going to Mani Karan
sahib once with family and just about 2 kms before Gurudwara we saw lot of
hippies sitting in a small village. At that time driver told that these hippies
come here in search of Marijuana and weed. The name of the place was Kasaul.
Few months back I read a blog on BCM touring. This blog covered the beauty of
parvati valley (where Kasaul is located). It also featured the enormous food
options that one can explore in this small village. After that I briefed Sukrut
Sir regarding the destination and he also agreed to it without a second
thought. And for a change I decided to take Sukrut Sir’s Machismo 500 this
time. Although I am very familiar with the route but still I crosschecked the
route map and total distance on Google. So it was 480 kms precise on one side.
This sound’s interesting. I brought Sukrut Sir’s machismo a week prior to our
fixed date in order to get used to the bike. And it’s really a pleasure to
drive it. So on a freaky Saturday morning we both met at our starting point (hp
petrol pump in front of community centre at NFC). We started at sharp 4:30am. I
asked sukrut to have our first stop at “sukhdev da dhaba” as I was feeling really
hungry at that time in morning. This was the indication of a gastronomic trip.
And it indeed was. We both have got one thing very good in common. We both love
to burn the road at high speeds. And this time some phases of the entire ride
were one of the fastest rides I ever made. Now coming back to the trip. We
reached Sukhdev in no time. Paranthas were but obvious choice. While we were
eating a bikers group came there. Few members of that group were leaving for
Ladakh and others were there to see them off. There were some known faces from Facebook.
We checked a bike in that group. It was very beautifully modified. We started
again and decided to not to stop before Chandigarh. On the way we crossed many bikers
who were going towards Ladakh. It seems that every other bullet on that day on
NH-1 was going to Ladakh. As usual we both were fast. I touched 120 kmph first
on my life on a two wheeler. It was all because of the 500 cc machine that I
was driving. NH-1 though not in very good shape these days still it make you go
vroooooooooooommmmmmm. We crossed Ambala at 8:30 am and in order to avoid the
morning traffic, speed limits and number of street lights of Chandigarh I
decided to go via Banur and completely by pass Chandigarh. Sukrut sir followed
me and by 9:30 am we were at Kharar. This detour is almost 15km longer than the
usual Chandigarh route but it saves you almost 45 minutes. Next stop was “bittu
da dhaba” in front of my college
near Kurali on NH-1. We didn’t opt for food there but still we both need to
relax down a bit and let the bikes cool off. I told sukrut some old stories of
my college time like how we used come to that dhaba in the night for paranthas.
There was a family sitting over there. A young couple from that family was
looking at me continuously. I normally avoid such situations. And we moved out
of that dhaba. that guy came to me. He
said to me “sadarji aap par chashma bahut acha lag rahaa hai”.
It was the
praise for my aviators and I was overwhelmingly happy and thanked him from
heart for his compliment. We started our journey again and once u cross the
kurali flyover then there is nothing that can stop u from speeding up. The
roads are just awesome. From there I took CBR and decided to try my hand on it.
I was driving it properly for first time. Sukrut gave some advices regarding
its handling. Man the moment I dropped down the 4rth gear I fell in love with
CBR. I really have no words regarding my
experience on that bike. I touched almost 130 kmph on the stretch between ropar
and kiratpur sahib. No vibrations at all and very smooth handling. Awesome
machine to have if one have that much of money in pocket. From kiratpur begin
the real fun. We took the right turn towards himachal from there. Initial few
kms were in quite bad shape. But once u enter Himachal roads are excellent. We
came across a group of bikers who were going for pilgrimage to manikaran sahib(
u will see hell lot of boys from Punjab on bikes going towards manikaran sahib)
all of them were on splendours with open silencers and that was creating more noise
then long bore silencer of my bullet. And there driving skills were scary. I
don’t want to sound cynical and neither it’s my business but sometimes I wonder
that are these sort of idiots really on a pilgrimage. In real sense they are
nothing more than nonsense on roads with danger to others. But I don’t think I
am eligible enough to comment on this thing. Now coming back to the ride.
Within 2 hours we reached Bilaspur and boy o boy it was hot there. Cruised out
of Bilaspur as fast as possible. Till mandi the weather was hot as hell. I was
feeling my skin getting burnt on the exposed part on my forehead. Sukrut sir
stopped before Mandi for some quick pictures. As soon as I enter Mandi it was
the same old story. Traffic jams, crowded buses, busy streets. It took almost
15 mins to cross the mandi city and then I stopped to relax just before the Gurudwara
sahib on the outskirts of Mandi. Relaxed there for almost 10 mins and then
sukrut sir came. We decided to have lunch now as it was already past 2.30 pm.
So the search for a decent eating place started. Actually we were more in
search of a place where we could get beer with food and that search ended at
Sanjha chula.
Then came the mighty Kingfisher. Oh god!!!! We were actually
relaxed now. (on a hot day if you are at home then nothing gives you better
company then chilled beer, popcorn, and TV. Or otherwise there are roads to be
explored) we started again and don’t know (either it was beer effect) but the
ride became very soothing. Awesome roads, nice weather. What else could a biker
ask for!!!! Reached the famous Aut tunnel. I just love to cruise through this
tunnel. After this our next stop was Sundernagar. It took us some time to cross
this city and the time was almost 4.15pm by now. Weather was getting better and
better. And we both were speeding as we were bit worried about our reaching
Kasaul on time. Before Bhuntar we stopped at a place where some adventure
activities were taking place. Those guys over there were having ATV bikes with
them and were charging 1500 bucks for half hour ride. Me and sukrut sir looked
towards each other’s face and preferred to ride our bikes. The real fun begins
once you cross bhuntar. After crossing bhuntar we entered into the parvati
valley. Narrow roads with tall trees on one side and parvati river on the
other. It was indeed the most nostalgic part of the ride. I had always loved
this road. In my childhood days when i used to go there with family in our car,
dad would make it sure to stop for some time at the banks of parvati. This
entire route, which starts from bhuntar to manikaran sahib is in real very
beautiful. Snow-capped mountains were in the view in not so far vicinity. We
reached Kasaul by 7.00 pm. It was a beautiful place with lot of hippies and
more of wana be hippies (this is a special category of Indians which will be
described later). While searching for hotel we came across a camp site but all
the tents were booked on that day. So after checking out at few hotels we
finally settled in a hotel. I forgot the name of the place but it was in old Kasaul
and was pretty decent. It was on a cliff. Sukrut sir made me climb till the
reception of that hotel twice and it was a big task in itself. I wish I would
have same up and down thrice a day daily and that may have resulted in a
slimmer waist. After changing and
getting freshen up we went out for food. And guess what.
Each and every
restaurant over there was having Israel food on the menu. The reason was the
hippies. After the military training in Israel (which is compulsory for every
one) youngster land up in Kasaul in search of solace and peace. I don’t know
how much peace they get there but ya for solace m pretty sure. They get never
ending supply of weed which make there squirrels to dance on flowers and that
too on one leg. So after checking with one or two eating joints we finally settled
in yen’s kitchen. And it was quite a place to be at. Sculptures of Buddha,
Posters of bob Marley, and youngster smoking out weed. What else can be desired
at such a place? But the food was good without a second doubt. I don’t remember
anything else that we ate on that day except kingfisher. Tiredness was taking its
toll and drunk we were. Reached our hotel with lot of efforts and straightway
landed on bed. Don’t know how much I snored that night (my sister say’s that I
do quite loud) but we both had a pleasant sleep.
Day-2 (Laziness all the way and discovery of a new species-wana be hippies)
I woke up in the
morning and saw sukrut sir with a frustrated face. Not because of my snores.
There was no water in the wash room and he was running from pillar to post to
ease of himself. But soon his problem ended and water came. I ordered tea and
went to the balcony. It was almost 8:30 am by now. It was beautiful outside. I
rarely get to see such blissful mornings until and unless m not at our
farmhouse back in Punjab. After finishing tea we got ready for breakfast and
straightway headed to Moon Dance bar and café. I read about this place in a
blog on BCM touring website. Breakfast was ordered from a long menu. But mine
personnel favourite were pancakes. Never in my life had I eaten such delicious
pancakes. So after filling ourselves with half fried eggs, pancakes and ginger
lemon tea it was time for some biking now. But before that something else was
on the list.
We checked at the same camp site and luckily got a camp for two in
just 500 bucks and dude it was really cheap. Initially sukrut sir was having
some doubts but then on my insisting he agreed to stay in camp. We checked out
of our hotel, picked our bags, dropped them in the tents and went to ride. We
first we went to the city of manikaran and then thought of going to the farthest
point possible towards kheer ganga. It was a magnanimous
route. I was just in love with the mountains at that time. Then after covering
almost odd 18 kms we thought of returning back. Took U-turns and headed
straightway to little Italy café. Time was almost about 1.30 pm. In spite of
the heavy breakfast in the morning we both were hungry by now and this hunger
was of beer. So first on the order list was kingfisher then followed the
Israeli dishes whose name I can’t remember now but they were just delicious. So
after 3.5 hrs, at least 6 bottles of beer and uncountable food the bill was
just Rs 950.
Man it was cheap. That much of food would have made a big hole in
our pockets in Delhi. There was a pool table also which was free. And here
comes those wana be hippies playing pool for whole day and doing nothing. Let
me describe them better. This is that category of Indians who don’t want to be
Indians. They come to places where mostly foreigners live, they will dress like
them, and they will TRY to speak like them. All in all they will do everything what
hippies do and they think that this will make them look cool. On that very day
there was a rave party being organised in Kasaul. Everyone knew about it. Every
one said that they are going to that party. But we saw no one going there till
the late evening as the entry passes were bit on higher side. We met a dude at
same cafe. He was from Jammu and was on vacations after completing his b-tech.
(although he was to re-appear in 7 of his subjects because of backlogs) he
offered us weed and we readily accepted. It was my first time. Didn’t felt
anything but the flavour was good. So after a long day, lot of beer, lot of
delicious food, some weed it was time to call off the day in our tent. This is
what I call a perfect relaxing day.
Day-3 a long tiring unplanned
day (but what’s the fun in following a certain path)
We woke up quite early as we were to visit the Gurudwara
sahib at manikaran.
We left our tent at almost 6:30 am and headed towards Gurudwara
sahib. I don’t know how sukrut sir felt at this point. I have never seen him
praying or going to any temple or any other religious place. But the thing that
he practices in life is something I believe is above all. He is true to himself
and responsible towards his life. So after Darshan we roamed in the streets of
manikaran city and there was nothing to be explored. We were having some other
plans also. There was a path along the river near the hotel where we stayed for
the first night. So we decided to explore it. And it was a good decision. After
walking ahead for almost 500 mtrs there was no human life around. Water was
crystal clear and only voice that was getting in to the ears was of the river.
It was truly a blissful experience. Then we moved back to our tent. Picked our
luggage, cleared the bill and settled at little Italy. So next plan of action
was to be decided. Sukrut sir didn’t want to ride for the whole day on day-4.
So it was decided that we will go till sundernagar today. Will stay there for the
night and will start up as early as possible on day-4. This was making me sad.
I tried for something once more. I asked sukrut sir to take a detour to manali
from bhuntar and then returning on same day and instead of going to sundernagar
we could stay at mandi. He agreed to it. Time was 9.30 am. It was time to bang
now. And there we were on Manali highways riding as fast as we could. I was
driving bullet at that time and man I was making it scream that day. While
crossing a bridge a Xylo overtook me and there was a girl in it. She waved at
me. As usual at first glance I thought that she may be waving to someone behind
me. And when I overtook that xylo I figured that t was all filled up with girls
and they again shouted. Dude something was wrong. But then I thought that they
may be time passing. I moved ahead and stopped at green tax toll point just
before manali. Sukrut sir was already there as he was ahead of me. That Xylo
came and stopped. That girl again called me and this time by name. I was
shocked and it took me few seconds to figure out that she was Sukhmani. Her brother was my class fellow during school days
and then we came in contact thru Facebook. Her mom was also with her. So after
a brief introduction and chit chat I moved ahead. We entered manali and from
that very moment I started hating that place. Crowded, dusty, smelly. A lot
changed from what I remember from my childhood days. I have been to manali
almost 8 times earlier as its dad’s favourite hill station. But I don’t think
he still feel same about that place. We retrieved back on highway. Before
getting back I insisted sukrut sir for rohtang pass and the experssions on his
face were worth to be seen at that time. It made me clear that he is not gona
do it no matter what!!!! So we started our journey backwards. Just after
covering few kilometres we stopped for lunch and beer. And started our journey
back at 3.30 pm. With no idea of where we will stop. Both of us rode non stop
till bilaspur and there also we decided to head back and cover maximum
kilometres on that day. Then I asked sukrut sir that if it is to be then let it
be. I asked him to get out of himachal today itself. Rest we can decide once we
enter Punjab. After bilaspur it was all dark. So the fun was about to begin.
Riding in dark in mountains. I was dieing to do this form long time but never
got a chance. So here I was driving through the trucks and making my way on bad
roads and all this in extreme dark. I loved it. This was the best part. We
reached Kiratpur Sahib at almost 10.00 pm. Now where to go. There was no point
of staying there or anywhere on NH-1. It was impossible to reach delhi ad we
were too tired. A vague idea came to my mind. I called mom. Patiala was just 2
hrs drive away. She asked me to come home. We had our dinner. Food was wreck.
Menu was funny with an entire new league of dishes. After that bad dinner we
moved towards Patiala. I estimated to reac Patiala by 12.30 am. I was having
this thing in my mind again and again…”galat pang alai leya. Hun g….. phategi”.
We were about to reach Patiala when I stopped on side to wait for sukrut sir
but he was no whre in vicinity. I waited for almost 10 mins. And they I went
back to look for him. I noticed him going straight without him noticing me. I drove
fast, crossed him and as per my estimate we were at home by 12.30 am. And there
was my ever supportive but anxious
mother on that very day waiting for me at the main gate. And the first dialogue
that came “kithon aaya tu. Tainu chain ni aana”. All mothers are some but Punjabi mothers have an edge in scolding. Although she was aware
of my trip but she never expected me to be at Patiala at that hour of the
night. We were finally in our bed with a sound sleep to follow.
Day-4 (ever felt like a tandoori chicken?)
Woke up late. Got ready. Feasted ourselves on aloo de
paranthe with home made btter and kheer. Started our journey to delhi from
Patiala at 9:30 am. It was the month of june. I was afraid of the heat which we
were about to face on the way back. And I was right. These last 250kms were the
most diifcult kms of my life. Temperature was almost 47 deg. Warm air was
blowing me off. I was driving bullet a that time. I was stopping almost in
every town or village to have lemon water. I was badly scared of heat stroke on
that day. First time in my life on that day I was feeling uncomfortable while
riding a bullet. We stopped at neel kanth and that break was badly needed.
Relaxed there for almost an hour. In the final stretch sukrut just zoomed ahead
where as I was not able to go beyond 80-90 kmph. Somehow i reached Delhi and
met sukrut sir at Indraprastha metro station. My eyes were getting closed. My
head was hot like hell. I waved him bye and headed straight to home.
This was a trip that we both wanted to go for form a long
time. During our pauri ride we decided that next ride will be in himachal and
we made it. I will miss sukrut sir a lot not only because he was my best riding
partner but because he was my best buddy in Delhi. I have looked towards him as
an inspiration source.(he always doubted my this statement).He was always there
in my difficult time and supported me the most at times when I was badly broken
from inside. Since he has left and settled in Mumbai now I wish him best of
luck for his bright future. For sure
there will be more rides together. But this time it will be Maharashtra and
Goa. But before that I have to visit Sarahan and Rampur bushhar and I may do
this ride alone.
Till then
CHEERZZ TO THE JOURNEY CALLED LIFE.
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